Fall is the perfect time for planting! After a full Spring and Summer of growth, Fall provides the time and space to evaluate your garden and determine which parts of your landscape need a statement plant, where you could bulk up vacant beds, and which plants should be moved.
With milder air temperatures, warm soils, and free irrigation (thank you, Pacific Northwest rainfall!) Fall planting allows roots to get settled and put on valuable growth before the next year rolls in.
Why Is Fall Good for Planting?
Fall planting is all about the roots! Putting plants in the ground during fall gives them time to grow deep roots so they are better able to withstand heat and drought conditions when Summer comes again the following year. Cooling air temperatures in Fall slows the growth of plants above ground, which means less stress on the plants’ resources. And fortunately, the soil in Fall is still warm, allowing roots to continue to grow until soil temperatures are in the low 50s to upper 40s.
Increasing rainfall helps keep the soil moist and new roots happy, but it is always best to continue to water new plants regularly until rains are ample and consistent.
Fall planting lets you repair issues you’ve been dealing with all Summer! If you’ve been struggling with gaps in the landscape during the fullness of Summer, then those can be easily remedied with new plants in the Fall. After Summer, you’ll know exactly which parts of your property don’t have enough privacy and might need a new hedge, or where you might have an eyesore that could use an evergreen screening plant. If there are beds that haven’t looked full enough, you can bulk them up by adding in perennials and grasses. And if there are parts of the landscape that could use a certain something, consider a deciduous tree or shrub to act as a seasonal statement plant.
Which Plants Can Be Planted in the Fall?
- Evergreen Trees, Shrubs & Hedges
- Deciduous Trees & Shrubs
- Herbaceous & Evergreen Perennials
- Ornamental Grasses
- Cold-Hardy Seasonal Color
- Spring-Flowering Bulbs
- Cold-Tolerant Edibles
- Fruit Trees & Berries
- Herbs
- Grass Seed for Lawns
Fall Planting Tips & Techniques
- Always add organic matter when planting; use a ratio of ⅓ to ½ compost to native soil. Dig your hole twice as wide, but no deeper than the pot you are planting from; keep the plant at the same level in the soil as it was before replanting.
- Starter fertilizer has essential nutrients that young plants need; many are bone meal-based, which provides plants with the power to grow a healthy root system. We recommend using G&B Starter Fertilizer in every hole you dig!
- Winter weather can be severe; consider wind gusts and rain patterns when deciding whether or not to stake a tree or shrub for temporary support.
- To determine if your soil is too wet for planting, squeeze a wad of soil in your hand until it stays in a ball. Poke the soil ball with your finger—if it crumbles, it’s ready; if it stays in a ball, it’s too wet to work with (you can even damage the soil structure if you insist on planting). If drainage is a concern, partially fill planting hole with water to see how well it drains before planting.
- Great products to know: G&B Soil Building Conditioner, Malibu Compost, G & B Organic Fertilizers
- One of our favorite tools for gardening is a soil thermometer!
We are lucky to live in an area where it is almost never too cold to plant! Continue to plant until up to 2-4 weeks before your average first hard frost; we prefer to get most plants tucked in by late-November. If you plant close to or after frost, those plantings may not root well, if at all, but should still fare better than if left in their nursery containers over winter. Consider providing additional protection during extreme winter conditions.
How to Move or Divide Plants Successfully
Everyone is happier when not overcrowded! The best tools to use for dividing are a cultivating fork or sharp spade and a Hori Hori knife. The most important thing to remember is to give newly moved or divided plants plenty of TLC—regular watering and a little extra mulch in winter, at least for the first year or two. A good rule of thumb is to divide spring-flowering plants in early fall and divide summer and fall bloomers in early Spring.
New Plant Aftercare & Winterization
Even “old” plants are “new” plants once they’ve been moved; young roots need extra protection from extreme temperatures (mulch).
- If working with deciduous or herbaceous plants that will go dormant for winter, keep moist until dormant and continue to water as they emerge in spring.
- To speed up the rooting process, use Root Master B-1 after planting.
- Evergreen plants, especially broad-leafed evergreens, may need to be staked for support until rooted and will need to be kept consistently moist as well as protected from extreme cold temperatures and drying winds (Cloud Cover or MoistureLoc are products that help plants retain their natural moisture levels; they are both sprayed onto the plant’s foliage for protection).
- Before predicted cold snaps, water all plants well, especially newly planted ones.
- If using mulch for winterizing purposes, be sure to wait until after the first hard frost so plants have a chance to go dormant; shortly after Thanksgiving is usually a good time. Be sure to leave the area around the crown of plants free of mulch; don’t pile mulch up around the base of plants or against the trunks of trees or shrubs.
Weed Control & Prevention
Dormant weed seeds come alive as fall rains return. Use a layer of weed-seed free compost or mulch (at least 2-4 inches deep) to suppress weeds. Apply a corn gluten product or use Preen as an anti-germination agent in freshly weeded areas where you don’t want new seeds to sprout.